WOMOFIX · Installation instructions
Anti-Prick installation instructions for Fiat Ducato, Peugeot Boxer and Citroën Jumper (Prickstop)
Here you will find installation instructions for Anti-Prick (Prickstop) on the driver's door and rear door, as well as for the mechanical rear-door lock. First compare your door trim with the photo, then select your product in the table. Each online guide takes you through installation and the final functional check.
1. Identify the newer or older Ducato door trim
Newer door trim
Large shaped trim panel with integrated armrest, speaker grille and storage compartments. The Fiat Ducato from the model change around 2021.
Older door trim
Armrest and lower trim are separate parts. The speaker grille and the lower storage compartment are detached individually.
2. Select Anti-Prick product and installation instructions
| Product | Newer door trim | Older door trim |
|---|---|---|
 Anti-Prick inside – driver’s doorStainless-steel protective plate fitted inside the door | ||
 Anti-Prick Pro outside – driver’s doorVisible two-piece protective plate | ||
 Anti-Prick inside – rear doorProtective plate on the lock cylinder | Applies to both older and newer driver's-door trim. | |
Anti-Prick Pro outside – rear doorTwo-piece protective plate behind the handle | Applies to both older and newer driver's-door trim. | |
 Rear-door lockAdditional mechanical lock with folding retaining pin | Applies to both older and newer driver's-door trim. | |
For the driver's door: trim-removal tool For gentle detachment of covers and clips, we recommend that Door-trim and clip-removal tool.
For the driver's door: replacement clips If clips are damaged during disassembly, you will find the Clip set. Before ordering, compare the existing clips with the product image.
Install Anti-Prick inside the driver’s door – New door panel (Ducato 8 and equivalent models)
Newer door trim (Ducato 8 and equivalent vehicles)
PDF guideThe inner protective plate is mounted on the existing fastenings of the outer door handle. In the case of Ducato 8, identical vehicles and subsequent models with this door trim, the main difference is the removal of the paneling; the insertion of the plate and the subsequent sealing of the membrane follow the same principle.
Before installation
Read the entire guide before starting and have the tools and materials ready. If you also plan to replace the speakers or insulate the door with Alubutyl, you can do so while the trim is off. Neither task is required to fit the protective plate.
Tools and materials
- Phillips screwdriver and Torx bits T15–T30
- 10 mm socket, ratchet and extension
- Plastic trim lever or clip-removal tool
- Pliers for stubborn clips and connectors
- If necessary, a small slot screwdriver for unlocking plugs
- A cloth for collecting nuts and a tray for screws
- Cord or belt for securing the detached trim panel
- Cutter knife and suitable adhesive tape for resealing the door membrane
Open the driver's door and secure it against slamming. Lower the pane about 5 cm while the power-window switch is still connected. The window gap will help support the detached trim later. Keep the removed screws with their corresponding parts.
Remove the door trim
In Ducato 8, identically constructed vehicles and subsequent models with this door trim, armrest, speaker grille and storage compartments form a large paneling unit. Remove it as one unit. The speaker sits behind on the door sheet metal and remains mounted for access to the door handle.
1. Remove the power-window switch panel
The switch panel often fits tightly. Insert the plastic trim lever at its rear short end — shown by the red arrow on the left in the first photo — and carefully lift the panel there.
Once a gap appears, hold it open with a thin plastic card. Continue releasing the switch panel step by step. When its rear end is free, unhook the front retaining tab and lift out the panel.
Unlock the connectors at the bottom and unplug them from the case, not the cables. A small metal clasp on top of the trim panel may fall out; reinsert when assembled.
2. Remove covers and hidden screws
Carefully lever out the small panel behind the inner inside door handle and remove the two screws underneath.
Push the rear armrest cap up and remove it. Below is a screw; turn it out. The following photos show the direction of movement on the predecessor model, which is the same in this trim panel.
Remove the rubber insert from the grip recess and loosen the screw underneath. In addition, remove the round cover cap in the storage compartment next to the drink holder and the screw behind it.
3. Remove the remaining screws and door trim
Remove all nine screws. Grip sturdy areas of the trim and pull it firmly towards you. The clips normally remain in the trim. If it resists, work close to the clips with the trim-removal tool. Support the trim so its weight is not carried by the wiring or door-release cable.
Carefully release the inside door-handle unit from its recess and guide it through the opening in the trim, as far as possible without pulling on the release cable. The cable can stay connected. Hang the trim from the slightly lowered window, or turn it aside and support it on a chair. We recommend leaving the cable connected because its retaining clips can break.
If any clips remain in the door sheet metal, remove them. Refit intact clips to the trim before reassembly and replace damaged clips.
4. Open the door membrane
The door membrane lies behind the trim panel. Cut the membrane cross-shaped in the area of the outside door handle with a utility knife. Raise the membrane a little from the substrate and guide the blade only through the membrane so that you do not damage cables and components behind it. Fold the resulting flaps to the side. The opening only has to be so large that you can reach the two fastening nuts and insert the protective plate.
Alternatively, you can carefully detach the membrane at the edges. After installation, close the cut membrane with adhesive tape; glue the loosened edges again with a suitable adhesive.
Fit the protective plate
5. Remove the mounting nuts and fit Anti-Prick
Behind the open membrane you reach the two fastening nuts of the outside door handle. Stuff a cloth under the work area into the cavity. It catches a falling nut so that it does not disappear into the door cavity.
Remove both nuts completely with a 10 mm socket and keep them safe. A little tape or grease inside the socket helps retain a nut. Reach the left nut through a separate opening: remove its rubber plug and refit it after installation. If the linkage obstructs the socket, ask a second person to turn the key slightly from outside until you can position the socket. Do not bend the linkage aside.
Place the protective plate on the two existing threaded bolts. The angled tabs with the holes point away from you towards the door. The large cutout surrounds the lock mechanism. The small cutout fits around the adjacent Torx screw, which stays in place. This also confirms the plate is the right way round. Align it as shown in the next photo.
Refit both nuts and tighten them without overtightening. The plate must sit securely. Check that the lock mechanism and linkage still move freely and do not touch the plate.
Remove the cloth used to catch falling parts from the door cavity now. Remove all tools and loose parts before resealing the membrane.
Reassemble the door
6. Refit the trim and check operation
Once you have cut the door membrane, close the cuts carefully with adhesive tape. Once you have detached the membrane at the edges, glue these areas tightly again with a suitable adhesive. Take all the cloths, tools and loose parts out of the door.
Run cables and inside door handle unit through their intended openings. Put on the door panel, align all the clips and press the panel close to the clips. No cable or release cable shall be clamped or tensioned.
Refit the inside door-handle unit and start all removed screws loosely. Tighten them once everything is seated. Refit the covers and rubber insert. Reconnect and seat the switch panel, ensuring its connectors click into place. Reattach any REMIS frame that was loosened. Finally, degrease the area beside the door handle and apply the WOMOFIX sticker.
Final checks
Keep the key at your fingertips when checking so you don’t accidentally lock yourself out.
- The inside and outside door handles, key and central locking all work.
- The power window, mirror controls and speaker work.
- The door opens and closes normally; all trim parts are fixed and flush.
- The door membrane is tight, all cloths and tools are removed and no cable is trapped.
This guide shows how to fit the inner protective plate to the left driver's door of a Fiat Ducato, Peugeot Boxer or Citroën Jumper. It attaches to the existing outside door-handle fasteners from inside the door.
Most of the work involves carefully removing the door trim. Follow the order shown in the photos: speaker grille and speaker first, then the switch panel, covers and armrest. With the lower door trim removed, you can reach the outside door-handle fasteners behind the door membrane. Fit the protective plate there, then reassemble the door.
Before installation
Read the entire guide before starting and have the tools and materials ready. If you also plan to replace the speakers or insulate the door with Alubutyl, you can do so while the trim is off. Neither task is required to fit the protective plate.
Tools and materials
- Phillips screwdriver and Torx bits T15–T30
- 10 mm socket, ratchet and extension
- Plastic trim lever or clip-removal tool
- Pliers for stubborn clips and connectors
- If necessary, a small slot screwdriver for unlocking plugs
- A cloth for collecting nuts and a tray for screws
- cord or strap for securing the detached armrest
- Cutter knife and suitable adhesive tape for resealing the door membrane
Open the driver's door and secure it against slamming. Lower the pane about 5 cm while the power-window switch is still connected. The window gap will help secure the detached armrest later. Keep the removed screws with their corresponding parts.
Remove the trim components
Start with the speaker. After that, work your way through the switch console and the covers to the armrest. Only remove the lower door panel when these parts are detached.
1. Remove the speaker grille and speaker
The speaker grille clips in at three points. Carefully lift it at the edge with a plastic trim tool and pull it forwards. Only when the grid is removed, release the three fastening screws behind it.
Hold the speaker when the screws are loosened and then carefully pull it out. Press the lock on the plug and unplug the plug on the housing. Don't pull on the cables. Set the speaker aside. Remove the speaker and disconnect its cable before taking off the door trim.
2. Remove the power-window switch panel
The switch panel often fits tightly. Insert the plastic trim lever at its rear short end — shown by the red arrow on the left in the following photo — and carefully lift the panel there.
Once a gap appears, hold it open with a thin plastic card. Continue releasing the switch panel step by step. When its rear end is free, unhook the front retaining tab and lift out the panel.
Release the connectors underneath and pull them out by their housings. The opening reveals an armrest fastening screw. Remove this screw.
3. Remove the door-handle covers and remaining screws
Cover behind the inside door handle
Carefully lever out the small cover behind the inside door handle. Beneath it are two screws. Remove both screws.
Rear cap on the armrest
The next cover is at the rear top of the armrest. Slide this cap upwards and remove it. Remove the screw underneath it too.
Screws beneath the small side compartment
Beneath the armrest's small side compartment are two more Phillips-head screws. Remove these too.
4. Remove and secure armrest
Now the fastening screws of the upper armrest and handle unit are removed: one under the switch console, two behind the inside door handle, one under the rear cap and two at the bottom. Carefully detach the unit from its clips and hold it in place.
The armrest still hangs on the release cable of the inside door handle. Leave it attached. Secure the detached unit with a string or strap on the previously lowered window so that the underlying door panel is freely accessible. The cable and cables shall not bear their weight.
5. Remove the storage compartment and door trim; open the membrane
First unscrew the large storage compartment at the bottom of the door. It is secured with four Torx screws . Support the compartment while removing the last screw, then take it off.
Carefully release the lower door trim from its clips around the edge. Place the trim-removal tool close to each clip. Remove the trim and set it aside. If any clips remain in the door sheet metal, remove them with the clip tool. Refit intact clips to their mounting points in the trim before reassembly; replace damaged clips.
The door membrane lies behind the trim panel. Cut the membrane cross-shaped in the area of the outside door handle with a utility knife. Raise the membrane a little from the substrate and guide the blade only through the membrane so that you do not damage cables and components behind it. Fold the resulting flaps to the side. The opening only has to be so large that you can reach the two fastening nuts and insert the protective plate.
Alternatively, you can carefully detach the membrane at the edges. After installation, close the cut membrane with adhesive tape; glue the loosened edges again with a suitable adhesive.
Fit the protective plate
6. Remove the mounting nuts and fit Anti-Prick
Behind the open membrane you reach the two fastening nuts of the outside door handle. Stuff a cloth under the work area into the cavity. It catches a falling nut so that it does not disappear into the door cavity.
Remove both nuts completely with a 10 mm socket and keep them safe. A little tape or grease inside the socket helps retain a nut. Reach the left nut through a separate opening: remove its rubber plug and refit it after installation. If the linkage obstructs the socket, ask a second person to turn the key slightly from outside until you can position the socket. Do not bend the linkage aside.
Place the protective plate on the two existing threaded bolts. The angled tabs with the holes point away from you towards the door. The large cutout surrounds the lock mechanism. The small cutout fits around the adjacent Torx screw, which stays in place. This also confirms the plate is the right way round. Align it as shown in the next photo.
Refit both nuts and tighten them without overtightening. The plate must sit securely. Check that the lock mechanism and linkage still move freely and do not touch the plate.
Remove the cloth used to catch falling parts from the door cavity now. Remove all tools and loose parts before resealing the membrane.
Reassemble the door
7. Refit the trim and check operation
Once you have cut the door membrane, close the cuts carefully with adhesive tape. Once you have detached the membrane at the edges, glue these areas tightly again with a suitable adhesive. Then attach the trim panel parts in reverse order:
- Lower door trim: Put all the intact, matching clips in their mounting recesses. Align the panel and press it close to the clips. Screw the separate storage compartment again.
- Armrest and handle unit: Run the cables to their openings and insert the upper unit. Make sure that neither cable nor release cable is clamped or tensioned. Insert all previously loosened screws again.
- Covers and REMIS: Insert the panel behind the inside door handle. The rear armrest cap is inserted from top to bottom. Then attach the previously detached REMIS frame again.
- Switch panel and speaker: Reconnect the switch panel until its connectors click into place. Hook in the front end, then press the rear end into its recess. Reconnect the speaker until its plug clicks into place. Fit the speaker without trapping its cable and secure it with the three screws removed earlier. Finally, refit the speaker grille. Degrease the area beside the door handle and apply the WOMOFIX sticker.
Final checks
Keep the key at your fingertips when checking so you don’t accidentally lock yourself out.
- The inside and outside door handles, key and central locking all work.
- The power window, any fitted mirror controls and the speaker work.
- The door opens and closes normally; all trim parts are fixed and flush.
- All screws, nuts, clips and covers are reassembled; the REMIS frame is fixed.
- The door membrane is closed, the trapping cloth is removed and no cable is clamped.
Install Anti-Prick Pro on the outside of the driver’s door – New door panel (Ducato 8 and equivalent models)
Newer door trim (Ducato 8 and equivalent vehicles)
PDF guideThe two-part outer plate lies on the outside between the handle shell and the door sheet metal. Also for this, the door trim is removed, so that you reach the fastenings of the outside door handle from the inside. The handle itself remains on the vehicle.
Before installation
Read the entire guide before starting and have the tools and materials ready. If you also plan to replace the speakers or insulate the door with Alubutyl, you can do so while the trim is off. Neither task is required to fit the protective plate.
Tools and materials
- Phillips screwdriver and Torx bits T15–T30
- 10 mm socket, ratchet and extension
- Plastic trim lever or clip-removal tool
- Pliers for stubborn clips and connectors
- If necessary, a small slot screwdriver for unlocking plugs
- A cloth for collecting nuts and a tray for screws
- Cord or belt for securing the detached trim panel
- Cutter knife and suitable adhesive tape for resealing the door membrane
Open the driver's door and secure it against slamming. Lower the pane about 5 cm while the power-window switch is still connected. The window gap will help support the detached trim later. Keep the removed screws with their corresponding parts.
Remove the door trim
In Ducato 8, identically constructed vehicles and subsequent models with this door trim, armrest, speaker grille and storage compartments form a large paneling unit. Remove it as one unit. The speaker sits behind on the door sheet metal and remains mounted for access to the door handle.
1. Remove the power-window switch panel
The switch panel often fits tightly. Insert the plastic trim lever at its rear short end — shown by the red arrow on the left in the first photo — and carefully lift the panel there.
Once a gap appears, hold it open with a thin plastic card. Continue releasing the switch panel step by step. When its rear end is free, unhook the front retaining tab and lift out the panel.
Unlock the connectors at the bottom and unplug them from the case, not the cables. A small metal clasp on top of the trim panel may fall out; reinsert when assembled.
2. Remove covers and hidden screws
Carefully lever out the small panel behind the inner inside door handle and remove the two screws underneath.
Push the rear armrest cap up and remove it. Below is a screw; turn it out. The following photos show the direction of movement on the predecessor model, which is the same in this trim panel.
Remove the rubber insert from the grip recess and loosen the screw underneath. In addition, remove the round cover cap in the storage compartment next to the drink holder and the screw behind it.
3. Remove the remaining screws and door trim
Remove all nine screws. Grip sturdy areas of the trim and pull it firmly towards you. The clips normally remain in the trim. If it resists, work close to the clips with the trim-removal tool. Support the trim so its weight is not carried by the wiring or door-release cable.
Carefully release the inside door-handle unit from its recess and guide it through the opening in the trim, as far as possible without pulling on the release cable. The cable can stay connected. Hang the trim from the slightly lowered window, or turn it aside and support it on a chair. We recommend leaving the cable connected because its retaining clips can break.
If any clips remain in the door sheet metal, remove them. Refit intact clips to the trim before reassembly and replace damaged clips.
4. Open the door membrane
The door membrane lies behind the trim panel. Cut the membrane cross-shaped in the area of the outside door handle with a utility knife. Raise the membrane a little from the substrate and guide the blade only through the membrane so that you do not damage cables and components behind it. Fold the resulting flaps to the side. The opening only needs to be so large that you can reach the attachments of the outside door handle and loosen the grip.
Alternatively, you can carefully detach the membrane at the edges. After installation, close the cut membrane with adhesive tape; glue the loosened edges again with a suitable adhesive.
Fit the outer protective plate
5. Loosen the outside door handle
Stuff a cloth under the work area into the cavity. It catches falling parts. Remove all three nuts on the door handle by about 3 mm using the 10 mm socket: two nuts are below, and the third is above them on the left. Remove the rubber plug from the service opening to reach the upper nut with the socket. Refit the plug afterwards. The three nuts remain on the threaded bolts. The outside door handle is only loosened, not completely removed.
Clean the paint around the handle and the contact surfaces of the plate so that there are no dirt particles in between.
6. Insert the lower section
Carefully lift the loosened handle a little and push the lower part of the protective plate from the outside between the handle shell and the door sheet metal. Push it into position without force and temporarily fix it with tape.
7. Insert the upper section and align both pieces
Place the upper part between the handle shell and the door sheet metal. The lugs of the upper part engage in the recesses of the lower part. At first, only slightly tighten the nuts so that the two plate sections can still be aligned. Align the upper and lower parts evenly to the handle and to each other.
If both parts fit neatly and the handle is freely movable, tighten the loosened nuts without overtwisting the attachment. Remove the fixation tape and check the fit again.
Reassemble the door
8. Refit the trim and check operation
Once you have cut the door membrane, close the cuts carefully with adhesive tape. Once you have detached the membrane at the edges, glue these areas tightly again with a suitable adhesive. Take all the cloths, tools and loose parts out of the door.
Run cables and inside door handle unit through their intended openings. Put on the door panel, align all the clips and press the panel close to the clips. No cable or release cable shall be clamped or tensioned.
Refit the inside door-handle unit and start all removed screws loosely. Tighten them once everything is seated. Refit the covers and rubber insert. Reconnect and seat the switch panel, ensuring its connectors click into place. Reattach any REMIS frame that was loosened. Finally, degrease the area beside the door handle and apply the WOMOFIX sticker.
Final checks
Keep the key at your fingertips when checking so you don’t accidentally lock yourself out.
- The inside and outside door handles, key and central locking all work.
- The power window, mirror controls and speaker work.
- The door opens and closes normally; all trim parts are fixed and flush.
- The door membrane is tight, all cloths and tools are removed and no cable is trapped.
The two-part outer plate is pushed from the outside between the handle shell and the door sheet metal. In order to be able to loosen the handle from the inside, first remove the door trim. The removal up to the opened door membrane corresponds to the internal assembly.
Before installation
Read the entire guide before starting and have the tools and materials ready. If you also plan to replace the speakers or insulate the door with Alubutyl, you can do so while the trim is off. Neither task is required to fit the protective plate.
Tools and materials
- Phillips screwdriver and Torx bits T15–T30
- 10 mm socket, ratchet and extension
- Plastic trim lever or clip-removal tool
- Pliers for stubborn clips and connectors
- If necessary, a small slot screwdriver for unlocking plugs
- A cloth for collecting nuts and a tray for screws
- cord or strap for securing the detached armrest
- Cutter knife and suitable adhesive tape for resealing the door membrane
Open the driver's door and secure it against slamming. Lower the pane about 5 cm while the power-window switch is still connected. The window gap will help secure the detached armrest later. Keep the removed screws with their corresponding parts.
Remove the trim components
Start with the speaker. After that, work your way through the switch console and the covers to the armrest. Only remove the lower door panel when these parts are detached.
1. Remove the speaker grille and speaker
The speaker grille clips in at three points. Carefully lift it at the edge with a plastic trim tool and pull it forwards. Only when the grid is removed, release the three fastening screws behind it.
Hold the speaker when the screws are loosened and then carefully pull it out. Press the lock on the plug and unplug the plug on the housing. Don't pull on the cables. Set the speaker aside. Remove the speaker and disconnect its cable before taking off the door trim.
2. Remove the power-window switch panel
The switch panel often fits tightly. Insert the plastic trim lever at its rear short end — shown by the red arrow on the left in the following photo — and carefully lift the panel there.
Once a gap appears, hold it open with a thin plastic card. Continue releasing the switch panel step by step. When its rear end is free, unhook the front retaining tab and lift out the panel.
Release the connectors underneath and pull them out by their housings. The opening reveals an armrest fastening screw. Remove this screw.
3. Remove the door-handle covers and remaining screws
Cover behind the inside door handle
Carefully lever out the small cover behind the inside door handle. Beneath it are two screws. Remove both screws.
Rear cap on the armrest
The next cover is at the rear top of the armrest. Slide this cap upwards and remove it. Remove the screw underneath it too.
Screws beneath the small side compartment
Beneath the armrest's small side compartment are two more Phillips-head screws. Remove these too.
4. Remove and secure armrest
Now the fastening screws of the upper armrest and handle unit are removed: one under the switch console, two behind the inside door handle, one under the rear cap and two at the bottom. Carefully detach the unit from its clips and hold it in place.
The armrest still hangs on the release cable of the inside door handle. Leave it attached. Secure the detached unit with a string or strap on the previously lowered window so that the underlying door panel is freely accessible. The cable and cables shall not bear their weight.
5. Remove the storage compartment and door trim; open the membrane
First unscrew the large storage compartment at the bottom of the door. It is secured with four Torx screws . Support the compartment while removing the last screw, then take it off.
Carefully release the lower door trim from its clips around the edge. Place the trim-removal tool close to each clip. Remove the trim and set it aside. If any clips remain in the door sheet metal, remove them with the clip tool. Refit intact clips to their mounting points in the trim before reassembly; replace damaged clips.
The door membrane lies behind the trim panel. Cut the membrane cross-shaped in the area of the outside door handle with a utility knife. Raise the membrane a little from the substrate and guide the blade only through the membrane so that you do not damage cables and components behind it. Fold the resulting flaps to the side. The opening only needs to be so large that you can reach the attachments of the outside door handle and loosen the grip.
Alternatively, you can carefully detach the membrane at the edges. After installation, close the cut membrane with adhesive tape; glue the loosened edges again with a suitable adhesive.
Fit the outer protective plate
6. Loosen the outside door handle
Stuff a cloth under the work area into the cavity. It catches falling parts. Remove all three nuts on the door handle by about 3 mm using the 10 mm socket: two nuts are below, and the third is above them on the left. Remove the rubber plug from the service opening to reach the upper nut with the socket. Refit the plug afterwards. The three nuts remain on the threaded bolts. The outside door handle is only loosened, not completely removed.
Clean the paint around the handle and the contact surfaces of the plate so that there are no dirt particles in between.
7. Insert the lower section
Carefully lift the loosened handle a little and push the lower part of the protective plate from the outside between the handle shell and the door sheet metal. Push it into position without force and temporarily fix it with tape.
8. Insert the upper section and align both pieces
Place the upper part between the handle shell and the door sheet metal. The lugs of the upper part engage in the recesses of the lower part. At first, only slightly tighten the nuts so that the two plate sections can still be aligned. Align the upper and lower parts evenly to the handle and to each other.
If both parts fit neatly and the handle is freely movable, tighten the loosened nuts without overtwisting the attachment. Remove the fixation tape and check the fit again.
Remove the cloth and all loose parts completely from the door cavity.
Reassemble the door
9. Refit the trim and check operation
Once you have cut the door membrane, close the cuts carefully with adhesive tape. Once you have detached the membrane at the edges, glue these areas tightly again with a suitable adhesive. Then attach the trim panel parts in reverse order:
- Lower door trim: Put all the intact, matching clips in their mounting recesses. Align the panel and press it close to the clips. Screw the separate storage compartment again.
- Armrest and handle unit: Run the cables to their openings and insert the upper unit. Make sure that neither cable nor release cable is clamped or tensioned. Insert all previously loosened screws again.
- Covers and REMIS: Insert the panel behind the inside door handle. The rear armrest cap is inserted from top to bottom. Then attach the previously detached REMIS frame again.
- Switch panel and speaker: Reconnect the switch panel until its connectors click into place. Hook in the front end, then press the rear end into its recess. Reconnect the speaker until its plug clicks into place. Fit the speaker without trapping its cable and secure it with the three screws removed earlier. Finally, refit the speaker grille. Degrease the area beside the door handle and apply the WOMOFIX sticker.
Final checks
Keep the key at your fingertips when checking so you don’t accidentally lock yourself out.
- The inside and outside door handles, key and central locking all work.
- The power window, any fitted mirror controls and the speaker work.
- The door opens and closes normally; all trim parts are fixed and flush.
- All screws, nuts, clips and covers are reassembled; the REMIS frame is fixed.
- The door membrane is closed, the trapping cloth is removed and no cable is clamped.
On the rear door lies the protective plate behind the lock cylinder. They reach the mounting area after removal of the lower inner lining; disassembly of the driver door is omitted.
Before installation
This guide applies to the rear door with original lock cylinder. Open the door and secure it against slamming. Provide a screwdriver matching the screw head, a 10 mm socket with ratchet and extension, a cloth and suitable adhesive tape.
1. Remove lower rear door panel
At the rear door with lock cylinder, remove the lower inner paneling at the level of the door handle. It is usually screwed; The type and number of attachments may vary depending on the vehicle manufacturer and the installation. Remove all existing attachments and remove the trim panel carefully.
If the working area is additionally covered with membrane, open it only as far as necessary. After assembly, it must be completely closed again.
2. Loosen the lock-cylinder fasteners
Stuff a cloth under the work area into the cavity. Completely remove the two nuts at the lock cylinder attachment and set them aside. Tape or a little grease in the socket holds the nut.
3. Fit Anti-Prick
Put Anti-Prick with its holes over the threaded bolts. An existing reinforcement plate in the rear door does not assume the function of Anti-Prick. If such a plate is present, Anti-Prick sits between the reinforcement plate and the door sheet metal – as in the photo. Without an existing reinforcement plate, Anti-Prick sits directly at the fastening of the lock cylinder.
Screw both nuts back up and tighten them without overtightening the attachment. Check the secure fit of the plate and the free movement of the lock actuation.
4. Reassemble the rear door
Take the cloth, tools and loose parts completely out of the door cavity. Close an opened membrane tight again. Mount the trim panel with all previously detached fastenings.
With the key at your fingertips, check the door handle, the lock and the central locking. The door shall open and close normally; the protective plate shall be fixed and shall not touch moving parts.
Install Anti-Prick Pro outside on the rear door
Two-piece protective plate behind the handle
PDF guideAt the rear door, slide the two-piece outer plate from outside between the handle surround and the door sheet metal. Access the fasteners from inside after removing the lower rear-door trim.
Before installation
This guide applies to the rear door with original lock cylinder. Open the door and secure it against slamming. Provide a screwdriver matching the screw head, a 10 mm socket with ratchet and extension, a cloth and suitable adhesive tape.
1. Remove lower rear door panel
At the rear door with lock cylinder, remove the lower inner paneling at the level of the door handle. It is usually screwed; The type and number of attachments may vary depending on the vehicle manufacturer and the installation. Remove all existing attachments and remove the trim panel carefully.
If the working area is additionally covered with membrane, open it only as far as necessary. After assembly, it must be completely closed again.
Fit the outer protective plate
2. Loosen the outside door handle
Stuff a cloth under the work area into the cavity. It catches falling parts. Remove the fastenings of the rear door handle from the inside only so far that the handle can be lifted off the door sheet metal a little. The nuts remain on the threaded bolts; the handle is not completely removed.
Clean the paint around the handle and the contact surfaces of the plate so that there are no dirt particles in between.
3. Insert the lower section
Carefully lift the loosened handle a little and push the lower part of the protective plate from the outside between the handle shell and the door sheet metal. Push it into position without force and temporarily fix it with tape.
4. Insert the upper section and align both pieces
Place the upper part between the handle shell and the door sheet metal. The lugs of the upper part engage in the recesses of the lower part. At first, only slightly tighten the nuts so that the two plate sections can still be aligned. Align the upper and lower parts evenly to the handle and to each other.
If both parts fit neatly and the handle is freely movable, tighten the loosened nuts without overtwisting the attachment. Remove the fixation tape and check the fit again.
5. Reassemble the rear door
Take the cloth, tools and loose parts completely out of the door cavity. Close an opened membrane tight again. Mount the trim panel with all previously detached fastenings.
With the key at your fingertips, check the door handle, the lock and the central locking. The door shall open and close normally; the protective plate shall be fixed and shall not touch moving parts.
The mechanical rear-door lock joins the two doors with a folding retaining pin. Its halves use existing mounting points. Keep the door fittings in their original positions and align the lock halves before tightening the screws.
Tools and materials
Ratchet or bit holder with a Torx TX40 bit, marker pen and medium-strength threadlocker.
1. Mark the fitting position and loosen the screws
Mark the position of the existing door fittings before releasing so that the adjustment of the doors does not shift. Keep the fit in position.
Remove the two screws marked red in the photo completely. The third screw, visible at the top right, only rotate out about 3 to 4 mm; it remains screwed in.
2. Slide on the first lock half
Slide the matching lock half into place so its open cutout fits beneath the screw that was only loosened. Align its other two holes with the mounting points.
Insert the removed screws again and initially only slightly tighten all screws. The marked position of the original fitting must be maintained.
3. Fit and align the second half
Mount the second locking half accordingly on the opposite door fitting. Keep its original position as well.
Close the left and then the right rear door. Align both locking halves so that the holes for the folding retaining pin are aligned. The retaining pin must be capable of being fully inserted without pressure or jamming.
4. Tighten and check operation
Finally tighten the fastenings with medium-strength threadlocker as soon as the alignment is right. Afterwards, check again whether the retaining pin can be easily inserted and removed and whether the doors function normally when the lock is open.
The folding retaining pin connects the two halves. When the lock is open, attach the pin to the storage tab on the right so it cannot be lost while driving.
Installation videos
The videos complement the photos in the online instructions. Check which door panel and which protective plate are shown.