Motorhome tyres: which ones really save diesel?

Your next set of tyres deserves a closer look.

On a long motorhome trip, high diesel prices soon make themselves felt. It is natural to wonder whether the tyres could at least help save some fuel. The short answer is yes: rolling resistance matters. It becomes particularly relevant when you need new tyres anyway.

For me, the approved size, load capacity and wet grip come first. Once those are settled, fuel efficiency is worth comparing. A tyre that rolls easily but brakes poorly in the wet would not be a good choice for my motorhome.

Some van tyres achieve A for rolling resistance and A for wet grip. One example is the Continental VanContact Eco in 215/75 R16 C 116/114 R. Among dedicated motorhome tyres with the CP marking, the Bridgestone Duravis Camper All Season stands out: in 225/75 R16 CP 118/116 R, it achieves B/A. The Michelin CrossClimate Camping scores C/A in the same size and load rating.

That makes the Bridgestone interesting when comparing labels. The label cannot tell us whether it is also the better choice for comfort, wear or handling. You can find other sizes in the tyre comparison below.

What is the difference between A, B and C?

With every revolution, a tyre compresses and deforms, losing energy as heat. Rolling resistance describes the extent of that loss. The EU tyre label rates it from A to E: A rolls most efficiently, E least efficiently.

The letters next to the rain symbol rate wet grip. A tyre marked B/A therefore has rolling resistance class B and wet braking class A. This is not an overall score. Aquaplaning, dry braking, steering feel and durability also matter when choosing tyres, but are not covered by the label.

The decibel figure describes noise outside the vehicle. It does not reliably tell you whether you will hear a drone in the cab. The mountain and snowflake symbol, often called “3PMSF”, confirms tested snow performance. It appears on winter tyres and many all-season tyres, including some AT models.

One class better: how much fuel does that save?

Choosing B rather than C does not translate into a fixed number of litres. Each class covers a range: two tyres may sit just either side of a boundary or be much further apart. The engine also works against air resistance and other forces, not just rolling resistance. Reducing losses at the tyre therefore does not cut diesel consumption by the same percentage.

For a sense of scale, ADAC's general guide to the tyre label gives roughly 0.5 l/100 km between A and E. That is a guide figure for cars, not a measured saving for a loaded Ducato. The gap between C and B is also much smaller than the difference across the whole scale.

For an initial shortlist, remember: among comparable, suitable tyres, a better efficiency class is an advantage. Actual savings would need to be measured on the vehicle.

How much more fuel do AT tyres use?

AT tyres look the part on a campervan. And anyone who regularly drives on loose surfaces has different needs from someone taking the motorway to a campsite. Still, I would not buy an aggressive tread just for the occasional gravel access road. You live with its disadvantages on the road on every journey.

Switching from an efficient road tyre to an aggressive AT tread is likely to increase fuel consumption. But I would not turn that into a blanket extra one or two litres. Tyres, vehicles and conversions vary too much for that.

What drivers actually report

Tom from 7globetrotters reports roughly half a litre more fuel consumption after around 25,000 km on Falken Wildpeak AT3WA tyres. His motorhome is a Mercedes 711 weighing 5.6 tonnes when travelling, on 235/85 R16 tyres. The key point: his previous tyres were Nokian Rotiiva AT, also all-terrain tyres. It is an interesting long-term account, but not a general measure of the extra consumption compared with road tyres.

In adVANtour's account of changing tyres, fuel consumption initially appeared to increase considerably after fitting larger General Grabber AT3 tyres. The author later revised that assessment to account for the changed rolling circumference. As both size and pressure had changed, the difference cannot be attributed solely to the AT tread here either.

The five AT variants in our comparison have rolling resistance ratings of D or E. For example, the General Grabber AT3 in 235/65 R16 C 121/119 R is rated D, while the BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 in LT225/75 R16 115/112 S is rated E. Efficient road tyres can achieve A or B. For these versions, that argues against choosing AT tyres to save fuel; it does not establish a fixed difference in litres.

For me, the key question would therefore be: how often do I really need the capabilities of an AT tyre? Frequent gravel-road users may willingly accept the compromises. Anyone travelling almost entirely on tarmac should at least include a good road or all-season tyre in their shortlist.

AT describes the intended terrain; summer, winter and all-season describe seasonal use. That is why you can select “All-season” and “AT” together in the comparison. The LT marking used on some models stands for Light Truck. It does not automatically make a tyre a suitable replacement for C or CP.

Our Boxer shows why fuel comparisons are tricky.

We drive a 2018 Peugeot Boxer L3H2 ourselves. It started life as a 3.3-tonne Light and was uprated to 3.5 tonnes. It now runs on 235/65 R16 tyres. In our Boxer ownership report, we described fuel consumption of around 10.1 l/100 km according to the trip computer.

The larger wheels also changed the rolling circumference. That alone means the displayed figures before and after the change are not directly comparable. The camper conversion also made the vehicle heavier. A higher displayed fuel consumption therefore cannot, on its own, be attributed to the tyres.

To get a clearer picture on your own camper, record fuel added and distance covered over several tankfuls, ideally at similar speeds and travelling weights. After a change in tyre size, check the accuracy of the distance reading too. A single holiday leg into a headwind tells you little about tyre efficiency.

Which tyre size fits your camper?

The model name alone is unfortunately not enough. A Ducato Light uses different wheels from some Maxi or uprated versions. On the Sprinter, single and twin-wheel setups also need distinguishing. These sizes are useful starting points:

The vehicle documents, CoC and any paperwork for uprating or wheel changes are decisive. Our own Boxer, converted to 235/65 R16, is a good example of why a general Ducato size list cannot cover every vehicle.

C or CP: does it have to be a motorhome tyre?

C identifies van tyres; CP identifies tyres designed specifically for motorhomes. CP does not automatically mean a higher load capacity: that is what the load index tells you. If CP is required for the vehicle, you cannot simply fit a C tyre with a better efficiency label instead.

Some VW campers can also use XL tyres. These are reinforced passenger car tyres, not CP tyres. Approval, load capacity and speed rating must be suitable here too.

When it comes to weight, the axle matters.

A 3.5-tonne motorhome does not carry exactly a quarter of its weight on each wheel. A full rear garage or bicycles on the back mainly affect the rear axle. Simply calculating four times 875 kg and considering the tyre question settled would therefore be a mistake.

For a permitted axle load of 2,400 kg with single wheels, the calculation requires at least 1,200 kg per tyre. This means at least load index 115, rated at 1,215 kg. Uneven loading from side to side may require more capacity; specified ratings and inflation pressures still apply.

With a marking such as 118/116 R, the first load index applies to single tyres, the second to tyres fitted as twins. That is 1,320 kg and 1,250 kg respectively per tyre. The final R denotes a speed rating of up to 170 km/h.

For 4.25- or 5.5-tonne motorhomes too, start with axle loads, wheels and approved tyres. A higher load index alone does not uprate a vehicle.

Which tyre tests are useful?

I would start with the label, then look at a good tyre test. That shows how a tyre brakes and handles, and whether a good efficiency rating comes at a cost elsewhere.

What we would do when buying our next tyres

First, establish the approved size and required load index, then decide whether summer, winter or all-season tyres suit your travels. Within that shortlist, I would look for good wet grip and low rolling resistance. I would consider AT tyres where use away from paved roads justifies the compromise.

Before that, something less exciting is worthwhile: weigh the camper ready for travel and check the tyre pressures. The correct pressure depends on the vehicle, tyres and load. Automatically inflating to 5.5 bar, or simply letting air out for comfort, is not a sound approach. After changing the wheel or tyre setup, I would ask the manufacturer for the appropriate pressure recommendation.

And I would keep using the existing set if it is still in good condition. New tyres and fitting cost money upfront. Choosing an efficient version at the normal replacement time makes sense. Replacing four tyres early for uncertain fuel savings would be hard for me to justify.